Levito Madre and the Great Easter Madness
Is there anyone left who hasn’t heard of levito madre?
After the Easter frenzy across social media, it honestly feels like…no. This year something wild happened — about a month before the holiday, everyone suddenly started feeding starters and collecting panettone recipes like it was a national mission.
And panettone — another word that quietly entered our vocabulary. Technically, it’s an Italian Christmas bread. But because it looks a bit like our Easter bread (and tastes dangerously good), it completely took over. At this point, Easter without panettone feels… unlikely.
By the way, in Italy they do bake it for Easter too — just in the shape of a dove. It’s called colomba. And yes, this spring, those doves made it all the way to us.
So what is levito madre?
The one thing without which none of this would even be possible.
Levito madre is a stiff Italian starter with a soft, yogurt-like flavor and enough strength to lift even the richest dough — the kind loaded with eggs and butter.
What makes it special?
It’s traditionally started on sweet fruits (like grapes), which gives it a unique microbiome — very different from regular starters (wheat, rye), which are simply flour and water.
Of course, you can bake enriched dough with a regular starter (especially if you build a sweet stiff starter). But the rise won’t be the same. And the flavor? Levito is more refined. Regular starters sometimes bring a slight tang — subtle, but still there.
A little corner of sunny Italy in the Odesa Botanical Garden
Italian or… local?
You can absolutely create your own levito in summer or autumn — using grapes grown under your local sun. And you’ll end up with a strong, beautiful, very local “woman,” so to speak.
But if you’re curious to explore new flavors, you might want to try a real Italian one. Bakers often bring it back from workshops in Italy, and you can even find it on local marketplaces — levito that arrived years ago and has been quietly adapting ever since.
That said, “British scientists” (because of course they have something to say) claim that once a starter moves countries, it slowly assimilates. Your environment, your air, your water — all of it reshapes the microbiome.Meaning: whatever you buy, it eventually becomes yours. A kind of invisible cultural heritage of your kitchen.Which is why there are rumors that top bakeries still import levito from Italy specifically for Easter baking — even though they maintain their own starters daily. But honestly… that might just be marketing magic to justify a €30 panettone.
Kenwood vs KitchenAid
While bakeries are making their annual panettone fortunes, home bakers are not far behind.
I don’t think there’s a single person left who hasn’t posted a gluten window on Instagram or Threads.
About a month before Easter, the debates begin:
Which mixer? Which machine? What’s better?
Kenwood. KitchenAid Artisan. Other brands with names you can’t pronounce.
All of them enter the battlefield — facing 2–3 kilos of dough.
Spoiler: there is no winner.
Every machine has its flaws. And yes, there are plenty of complaints about newer models breaking down.
One piece of advice I did like:
If you plan to knead a lot of dough — get an actual dough mixer, not a general kitchen machine. The latter just isn’t designed for long, heavy kneading.
Which is why more and more bakers are quietly looking at brands like Ankarsrum.
Not very famous. Very expensive.
Can you turn a regular starter into levito madre?
This question alone deserves its own support group.
Quick basics:
Levito madre is a 50% hydration starter (meaning half as much water as flour), traditionally started on fruit.
There’s a popular idea:
If you take a 100% hydration starter and reduce the water to 50%, maybe add some sugar or honey… voilà — levito.
Short answer: no.
You’ll get a stiffer starter, yes. But not levito madre.
The key difference is the microbiome. And you can’t fake that with sugar.
You can create something similar — a stiff, sweet starter — and it will work. But it won’t have the same strength.
That said — experimenting is half the fun. And always worth it.
A small tip
If you don’t have levito but really want to bake enriched dough:– build a sweet stiff starter from your regular one
– buy levito just for a one-time bake
– or ask in baking groups — people often share it for free
A small note
While you can’t turn a regular starter into levito, the opposite does work.
After Easter, you can easily convert your levito into a 100% hydration starter. Just start feeding it equal parts flour and water — within 5–7 days, you’ll have a regular starter.
And if you want to save it for next year — dry some before converting it. Future you will be grateful.
Butter (yes, it’s a whole thing)
You’d think butter is simple.
It’s not.
Few topics have caused more arguments.
Videos, debates, strong opinions — and the quiet destruction of other people’s “wrong” methods.
Welcome to baking groups, where using 5g instead of 10g can get you excommunicated.
So what’s the deal?
It depends on how you knead your dough.
Panettone dough takes 30–40 minutes to develop — and it should not overheat.
Cooling ingredients helps. But soft butter (room temperature) helps with texture.
So what do you choose?
– In a mixer: soft butter usually works best
– If the dough overheats: use slightly chilled butter
– By hand: better to use cooler butter, since your hands warm the dough
Like most things — you watch, adjust, and find your own balance.
Preparing levito for panettone
Levito needs to be at its absolute peak to handle rich dough.
The usual approach:
Feed it three times the day before baking — each time at peak activity.
Daily feeding at room temperature is considered ideal. Some experts even suggest throwing away anything that’s been sitting in the fridge.
We… don’t have to go that far.
Do what works for you.
Bake often? Keep it active on the counter.
Bake occasionally? Keep it in the fridge and feed every 2–3 days.
Just remember to refresh it properly before big bakes.
Small tricks for a strong panettone
– Give your levito a bath (15–20 min, warm water + a bit of sugar)
– Do 3 feedings before baking
– Add sugar, eggs, and butter gradually
– Knead until you get a proper gluten window
– Choose strong flour (Manitoba or similar)
And one last thing
Levito madre might be the best magnesium supplement with zero side effects.
At some point, if you let yourself get curious, it just pulls you in.
Your mind stays busy calculating baker’s percentages.
Your hands stay busy shaping dough.
And somehow — you feel calmer.
So to everyone who already has their levito:
you’re in the big league now.
Panettone, brioche, pizza, croissants — it’s all within reach.
And even if it’s not perfect yet… you’ll get there.
Written by Olga Klimt 💛